Two days in GNP

July 2019

We took a short vacation up north. Craig had some time off from his volunteer responsibilities and we choose to go on a short trip. I had lots of ideas of places to visit, but the one we both agreed on was to Montana and beyond. Beyond being a couple of days also in Canada.

GNP is Glacier National Park - I think it also stands for God's Nice Place. While we were there I wondered if heaven could be anymore beautiful.

We stayed at the historic Many Glaciers Inn, it is over 100 years old! There is a lovely walking trail around the lake that the Inn over looks. But take your bear spray because, GNP is filled with bears. Although we didn't see a single bear so we were plenty safe. You just really never know when you might cross paths with either a grizzly bear or a black bear.

From Many Glaciers there are a several hikes. We went with Craig's cousin Cindy and her husband Gil to Iceberg Lake. It isn't just called Iceberg Lake because the water is glacier runoff, it has actual icebergs floating in the lake. It took our breath away with its stunning beauty. The water is COLD! The challenge is to step in the water, or swim in the water, or even swim to an iceberg and stay on it. Luckily we forgot our swimsuits, thus toe dipping was enough for us.

Iceberg Lake hike is just over 9 miles round trip. Nine miles of beauty with wildflowers; bear grass, asters, Indian paintbrush, and daisies (not so sure those are wildflowers.) The first section is mostly uphill over rocks. After that you walk pretty flat along the mountainside among the wildflowers, pines, and waterfalls.

Our second day was a drive to Logan Pass and Going-to-the-Sun Road. We parked about 1/4 mile in a turnout from the Logan Pass Visitor Center because it was super popular. From there we hiked a much shorter hike to Hidden Lake Overview. Shorter but almost constant uphill climbing. A good part of the hike is boardwalk, which is really nice. Hidden Lake Overview Hike had a constant flow of people going or coming. Often there are mountain goats seen but we only located one WAY up the mountainside. The secret is to look for a very tiny patch of white and watch to see if it moves. When it does, you found a mountain goat.

We did enjoy watching an adventurous bighorn sheep, that had wandered away from his herd, along the trail. He eventually made his way back to the group and we watched them for a while. We also saw a fat marmot sunning himself right off the trail. And of course there are always squirrels and chipmunks chasing around. No bears! Even with a busy trail though, you should always be prepared with bear spray.

There again are lots of hikes going out from Logan Pass Visitor Center to enjoy. Next time!

After Logan Pass we drove downward on Going-to-the-Sun Road. It was nice to be on the inside lane, especially if you have any fear of heights. We passed Weeping Rock, Bird Woman Falls, and numerous other little waterfalls from the melting snow. We opened the sunroof and enjoyed the view looking up at the overhanging rocks and trees amidst the blue sky.

A short stop was on the agenda at Apgar Village for huckleberry ice cream. Huckleberries are a delicious, sweetish/tart berry that mostly looks like a purple blueberry when ripe. They have a very deep purple color. Huckleberries are only found in the wild, they can't be cultivated. So each berry is precious. We ordered our ice cream for Eddies; it was all I hoped for - a big scoop of creamy, bite into ice cream bursting with huckleberry flavor and huckleberries.

Apgar Village is located near the West Glacier Entrance. Many Glacier is on the east of GNP. The two don't connect. We actually drove out of the park from Many Glacier, drove down to St. Mary's and went back into the park on the road to Logan Pass and on to West Glacier.

This National Park is a real treasure and hopefully a well kept secret from too many tourists. Pure breathtaking beauty.

The Trulli of Alberobello

When Craig served his mission in Italy as a young man, who was located in Brindsi and Lecce. While there he heard about the city of Alberobello and its trulli homes but he was never able to visit. Since this was a desire of his to visit we put it on our agenda after a Young Adult trip north.

Alberobello is in the Pulgi area of Italy along the heel of the boot. We traveled there from Rome by car. Arriving in Bari the night before took several hours because of the slow traffic limits and what seemed like never ending roads. Plus there is not a direct route. We explored Bari that evening and the next morning, then drove on to Alberobello about 1 hour south.

Although Alberobello is know to be very touristy, we were still able to explore the town without feeling too crowded.

The uniqueness of the trulli conical shaped buildings, a community of about 10,000 people, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.  The area started to be built up during the 15th century. It is stated there are over 1600 authentic buildings in the area of Alberobello.

Most of the homes are now shops with articles to purchase, food to buy, or places to eat. A few were open just for peeking inside. While inside one of the homes, we were told the houses were built this way so the smoke from the home fires inside would rise and not cause problems. This made sense at the time and still does. But a little internet research says trulli are whitewashed with limestone rectangle shaped homes with conical dome roofs made of overlapping stones. This arrangement made for self supporting homes.  The whole purpose was to avoid taxes.

Apparently this made the homes temporary instead of permanent. Temporary meant lower taxes, permanent meant higher taxes.  Building was continued in this form even after the community was decreed a royal city - which meant the taxes stayed low. I assume the townspeople liked the style at this point.

Some of the trulli are also decorated with pinnacles that are perhaps the signature of the master builder or also symbolic religious or mystic elements. Some of the roofs were painted with additional symbols that represent the same.

Craig and I enjoyed our wanderings in this little town. We meandered our way to the top of the hillside where The Church of Sant'Antonio is located. Built in the same style of the homes but in 1927. There is a fresco above the altar of Christ Pantocrator painted by Adolfo Rollo. Across from the church is a pleasant park to rest or relax at.

Upon first arriving in Alberobello, it took a moment to find parking and paying. Initially I was hesitate because of an obvious street market offering lots of food, souvenirs, and drinks; even shoes. But once passed this commercial area we got into the streets with the homes. Although it may have seemed like there was a thoroughfare, the homes are connected and set close to each other and the streets did not have an obvious plan or direction. We wandered one street than another, mostly finding our way upward. We stopped to peek inside several shops and did choose a couple of simple souvenirs. There are a few buildings that offered for a small fee a view of the entire town and some offer a free view. We took advantage of one and walked up one narrow staircase to look and down another narrow staircase. The community was clean and neat.

 

It was a delightful and charming few hours and I am glad we made our way to this unique community of Alberobello - meaning beautiful trees.

 

The Flavor of Salt

January 31, 2019

Sicily, the sea is everything. This beautiful calm blue Mediterranean provides a holiday of relaxation on the seashore, warm enough for swimming almost year round. Fishing is a livelihood for many, bringing in their daily catch, sales to restaurants, sales to the homecooks for dinner. And then there is the sea salt of Trapani.

Salt piles with Mount Erice in the background

Salt Basins

The salt extractions from the sea date back to the time of the Greeks and Romans. The water is pumped into basins where windmills, dating back possibly to the 1500s of Turkish design, drain the water leaving behind the salt. Pure natural salt, piled high as little hills by workers, covered still today with terra cotta tiles for protection and drying. Just waiting to be sent throughout the world.

Pumps for the sea salt

Windmills for pumping the water in and out of the basins

Worker making a drain trench

Salt piles covered with the terra cotta tiles

The salt is often sold wet and damp with little pieces of rice to absorb the moisture and prevent caking. Salt is harvested easier in a places other than this traditional method in Trapani but the sea salt of Trapani is still treasured for its natural pure flavor.

Salt gathering on the sides of the basin walls

Coarse, pure, natural Trapani sea salt

 A visit to the salt pans of Nubia, just south of Trapani, was on my list of places to see before leaving Sicily. The beauty of the sea, the salt piles, the basins, and windmills did not disappoint. Although we were there in the offseason for tourists and was unable to discover the stories in the Salt Museum or observe the salt harvesting in production, we wandered to our heart's contentment.

With our friend Jacqueline

Salt flats of Nubia with the city of Trapani in the background

 

The factory offices

 

We enjoyed the time, views, and discoveries.

We were able to walk along these pathways between basins

Flamingos in the marshes next to the sea salt flats

Olive trees surrounding the road to the salt flats